Happy Wednesday Lash Lovers! Today we’re going to dive into what is a very misunderstood topic in the lashing world; Lash Thickness vs. Lash Weight. You might have heard people use both of these words as a way to explain how many lashes you can put on a natural lash while ensuring it stays healthy. But some artists may not realize that there is actually a difference between the two and both are equally as important when choosing the correct lash extension for your client. I know, confusing right? No worries, lash babe! I'm here to save the day and break it down for you. Let’s get started.
What is Lash Thickness?
Eyelash Extension thickness refers to the actual diameter or “thickness” of the extension. This is particularly important as you don’t want to overwhelm your client's natural lashes with an extension that is much thicker than their own lash. This is particularly important when choosing the lashes to use for volume fans. Handmade volume fans generally are created with lashes that are 0.05mm or 0.07mm in thickness.
Mega volume lashes can go as small as 0.02mm for those mega fluffy and dense fans. These fans are smaller than the average classic lash, that can range in thicknesses of 0.10mm-0.20mm with the occasional diameter of 0.25mm.
So, why is this so important to understand and put to use with each and every set you do? Well, lash health, should be the top priority for you and your client, as putting a fan that is too thick on the natural lash can not only damage it by putting too much pressure on it, but can also be the culprit of early lash shedding and poor retention. The last thing you want is a client who may have sparse lashes from damage, and also poor retention. Talk about a lash day nightmare.
Choosing the Right Thickness
The rule of thumb is that your lash diameter should be as close as possible to the diameter of the natural lash. OR, you can take a look at the next paragraph for another method in choosing the right diameter. So keep this in mind next time you’re applying a volume set as you’ll have to use smaller diameter lashes, as the number of lashes applied to one natural lash will increase.
What is Lash Weight?
Lash extension weight and the knowledge of how to convert lash diameter into weight comes in handy when you are aware of the diameter that your client’s natural lash can handle while applying a classic singleton lash, but want to quickly and easily convert this into what diameter and how many of those lashes you can use for your volume and mega volume sets that equals the same weight.
Like I mentioned before, applying too much weight onto your client's lash is a recipe for disaster, but being aware of how much weight your client's lash can hold is the key to a healthy happy set. I know, confusing right? Here, let me break it down for you to see how this actually comes into play.
Let’s Break it Down
Lets say your client normally comes in for a classic lash set and you have decided that 0.15mm is a healthy thickness for the natural lash (remember, a good way to do this is place the extension under the natural lash and ensure it doesn’t stick too far out on either side; ideally you’d barely see the extension peeking through.) But, today she’s come in asking for a volume set. You start to panic, unsure of what tray to grab, but then you remember you’ve got this, you’ve read arguably the best lash blog in town (cough, cough) and know exactly how to figure out what volume lashes to use.
This method is straight forward once you get your head around it. You just need to know the weight in milligrams (mg) of your volume/mega volume extensions.
Lash Weight Conversion Equation
A classic lash of 0.15mm thickness weighs 0.17mg.
We also know that a 0.07mm volume lash weighs 0.04mg.
We then use those 2 values into the following formula:Weight of the classic lash divided by the weight of the volume (or mega volume lashes) equals the number of lashes you can use per fan.
So, we get...
0.17mg/0.04mg = 4.25 lashes, roundedto the nearest whole number = 4!
Okay Lash Babe, I’ve explained how weight plays a role in understanding the right amount of lashes to place, but who are we kidding? Most lash artists don’t have enough time to eat lunch let alone do the math. So, your fav product expert has created a chart (below) that you can print and keep at your station! Each time you're unsure of what lashes and how many of those lashes you should use, take a look at the chart and you’ll have the answer in a blink. You’re welcome.
Lash Weight Calculation Chart
I hope this article gave you a bit of insight on why both thickness and weight play a role in the madness that is lash health. This topic is tricky and can take some time to fully grasp and apply to your work; but you’ve got this lash lover, I believe in you!
In case you missed my related post on lash thickness, length and assessing lash health, you can find it here.
Have you ever struggled to know what tray to grab for those volume and mega volume sets? Leave a comment below about your favorite tips and tricks and don’t forget to check back for more posts on all things lashes!
After graduating with her cosmetology license and working in the hair industry, Janelle Greenstreet was introduced to the wonderful world of lash extensions and never looked back. Janelle lives in Colorado, with her husband and one year old son, has owned an eyelash extension salon and specializes in Classic and Hybrid lash sets. She loves to mentor up and coming artists, and also prioritizes her own continued education.